Five hikes in the Troodos worth a weekend

The Troodos rises in the middle of Cyprus like a separate country. Mount Olympus tops out at 1,952 metres, the air smells of pine, and the temperature drops noticeably once you climb past a thousand. A long weekend in the mountains in late spring or autumn is one of the best things the island has to offer.

Base yourself in Pano Platres, the belle époque hill station that the British colonial administration adopted as a hot-weather retreat in the late nineteenth century. The village sits at the trailhead for three of the five walks below, and the other two are a short drive away. The list runs from gentlest to most demanding, so you can pace the weekend by how your legs feel.

1. Lofou to Silikou

3.3 km circular · 146 m elevation gain · moderate

A relaxed walk between two yellow-stone villages on the southern foothills, far from any trailhead crowds. The path runs through olive and pine groves with views over the southern slopes, then loops back through Lofou for lunch in the square. About an hour and a half on foot, plus whatever the lunch becomes. Best done as the gentle start to the weekend.

2. Millomeris Waterfall

3.42 km · 223 m elevation gain · moderate

The trail drops from the edge of Pano Platres down to the foot of the Millomeris waterfall, the tallest single drop in Cyprus. The path is shaded almost the whole way, which makes it a sensible choice for a warm afternoon. The footing is uneven on the descent, so this is a shoes-not-sandals walk, but you are back at your car in about an hour.

3. Kalidonia Waterfall from Pano Platres

8.45 km circular · 468 m elevation gain · moderate

The Troodos classic. The trail follows the Krios stream uphill from Pano Platres through pine and golden oak, climbing past a series of dark pools to the foot of the Kalidonia falls. The return loop brings you back via the Trooditissa road. Half a day on foot. The falls are at their loudest in March, when the snowmelt is at its peak.

4. Atalanti and Artemis combined

10.04 km circular · 183 m elevation gain · moderate · max altitude 1,869 m

A long but gentle circuit at the highest altitude you can walk on the island. The combined Atalanti and Artemis loops run around the upper slopes of Mount Olympus, both official Forestry Department nature trails. The forest here is mostly black pine and juniper, with the kind of mountain stillness that exists nowhere else in Cyprus. About two and a quarter hours of moving time, but allow longer for views and a long lunch.

5. Pouziaris Nature Trail

9.02 km · 535 m elevation gain · hard

The challenge of the weekend. The trail climbs the Pouziaris ridge above the Kalidonia valley, hard at first, then levelling out along the top of the watershed. On a clear day the view stretches south to the Limassol coast. Save it for the second morning when your legs are warmed up, and pack more water than you think.

When to go

Spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November) are the best months. Summer is pleasant up at altitude even when the coast is at 40°C, but the lower walks like Lofou to Silikou are best done before ten. Winter brings real cold and the occasional snowfall above 1,500 metres; the high trails are sometimes closed in January and February.

What to bring

Sturdy shoes are non-negotiable for the longer walks. Water, two litres on a hot day. Sunscreen even in the forest, since the gaps between trees are bright. A printed Troodos National Forest Park map from the visitor centre in Troodos Square, because mobile signal drops out in the deeper valleys.

If you want to combine the walking with a wine afternoon, the southern Krasochoria are an hour's drive away. See our day in Omodos for the slow version of that.