My notes in the desert of hatred

Tomorrow marks the end of a ten-day motorcycle ride across Greece by dozens of Cypriot riders, part of a mission by the Isaac and Solomos Memory Initiative, thirty years on from their murders during anti-occupation demonstrations in the dead zone between occupied Kato Deryneia and Deryneia. But the memory of that brutal day doesn’t end. I was there. I saw both Turkish crimes with my own eyes.

I’d gone to cover the two anti-occupation demonstrations of August 11 and 14, 1996, as a journalist...